Journal · 16 octobre 2025 · Fixin, Côte de Nuits

Six hectares, six villages, trois personnes

A morning in Fixin with Guillaume Tardy: the barrel count that went 120, 50, 90, one plot per village, and why his tannins are silk where the village's are stone.

[Opening — how the morning started: the drive up the Côte, the cellar door, who was there.]

Guillaume Tardy farms six hectares across six villages with three people, full stop. One plot per village, always kept separate, never blended. At this size that is a decision, not an accident, and it is the first thing you notice on the table: six wines that each taste like one address.

120, 50, 90

The barrel counts are the spine of the last three vintages: 120 in 2023, 50 in 2024, 90 in 2025. [What he said about 2024 — what happened in the vineyard, and what a domaine does with fifty barrels.] [How 2025 felt after that.]

Soil as the argument for style

He thinks in components — sand, clay, silt, limestone — and then village by village. Sand gives freshness; clay gives structure and can turn rustic; silt softens. Fixin has a reputation for hard tannins. His are silky, and his answer to why is [the silt, or the cellar — his words].

No stems. A four-week rhythm in the cellar. Picking on the early side. [One more detail from the tasting that made the philosophy concrete.]

The glasses

[Chambolle — the 50–80-year-old vines on limestone and clay, “so linear and focused.”]

[Vosne Les Vigneux — below Suchots and Romanée-St-Vivant; floral and spice.]

[Gevrey Champerrier, Echézeaux Les Treux — the two grand-cru-adjacent stories.]

[Closing — what came home in the car, and what lands in Florida this fall.]